CRACKING MEDIUM

CRACKING MEDIUM

PAINTED FINISH

CREATE A WEATHERED PAINTED PATINA

Achieve a time-worn cracked and peeling paint effect. Cracking was originally used to make the paint look old. However, now it is also used as an effect in its own right.

Also, know as craquelure and crackling paint.

HOW TO

As with any technique, if you've never tried this before it is advisable to practice on some cardboard or scrap material first.

The process is fairly straight-forward but requires some attention to the guidelines detailed below.


Step 1 - Apply the base

Step 2 - Apply the sandwich coat of cracking medium  

Step 3 Apply the topcoat thick get big cracks, thin you get smaller cracks 

The old methods of cracking using gum arabic and forced drying were quite unreliable. They relied on the different drying speeds to crack the paint. The climate had to be just right and the slightest mistake would result in the process not working.

The Matisse cracking process relies on a reaction between the topcoat of Derivan Chalkboard paint and the Cracking Medium which has been applied below it. Once the topcoat is applied, the cracking coat below becomes semi-liquid again and shrinks, taking with it the topcoat.

It is worth noting that the topcoat should be applied systematically, covering the surface and not going over an area that has already been covered. As described before, the paints have been designed not to crack; therefore, when the Cracking Medium is trying to shrink and take the topcoat with it, the topcoat is actually trying not to break apart.

The thickness of the topcoat will dictate how big the cracks are. The thicker the topcoat the more easily it is able to hold together and resist cracking but when the Cracking Medium gets its way and manages to crack the topcoat, it will result in a very large crack. Thus the thicker the topcoat of Matisse Background Colour, the fewer the cracks but they will be big ones. Conversely, if the topcoat is applied very thinly, the Cracking Medium will encounter less resistance from it and therefore result in many more cracks but they will be much smaller in size.

The types of cracks obtained depend on the thickness of the topcoat and the way in which it is applied. The bottom coat has no bearing on the outcome of the cracking pattern. The way in which the cracking coat is applied will not affect the pattern, unless it is too thin, in which case it just won't work.

The surface on which the finish is to be applied may have some bearing on the pattern. For instance, if very large cracks are desired, the topcoat will need to be applied very thickly. It will be necessary to have the surface horizontal as the weight of the paint may run and pull the cracking medium if the surface is vertical.

On frame mouldings or 3-dimensional pieces the paint, as it cracks, will tend to sink to the lower surface due to gravity. This may leave edges or sharp points exposed and make the piece look contrived. If the artist is new to this finish, it would be prudent to do some tests on an old sheet of cardboard etc. before a large project is attempted.

It is not necessary to varnish the cracking finish unless it is to be used on utility items with a lot of wear and tear or if it is to reside outdoors.

The cracking medium may also give a higher sheen to the first coat (i.e. the cracks) than the topcoat. A varnish may be used to even out the different sheen levels as well as protecting the finish from water and some wear and tear.

Use only a solvent-based varnish such as MM14 Final Varnish Gloss Finish or MM15 Final Varnish Matt Finish. DO NOT use a water-based varnish as a final coat as it may crack.